(You can ALSO use strike water temp calculators from beer mashing to get the right temps/volumes and rather than heat in pot on the stove, dump hot water into an old cooler to do the same thing, a lot safer too, if working with carbonated bottles, as you can close the cooler lid and if anything pops, well, it's quite contained)) - again, a RIMS system or HERMS system hooked up to your mash tun would be a fantastic way to re-purpose that equipment for pasteurizing) If you want to use the stove, play with the temps and a half full pot until you get them to stabalize at 70C (158F) If you brew beer and have a pump / immersion chiller or HERMS/ RIMS system all of these can be repurposed to do this. You do not need a rack for the bottles as there is no direct heat, and the temp is maintained within. If you use an Anova immersion cooker, it has digital temp control and an impeller motor that circulates the water. I use an Anova sous-vide immersion cooker to maintain this, but you can experiment with different stove settings and perhaps if this is not an option. Get the water in your water bath for pasteurizing up to 70C, but 68C will also work ( 155-160F). monitor one) in your sink full of the hottest tap water you can get (I get mine up to about 120F, see photo ) and let it sit there until the temp monitor bottle stabilizes, while this is happening work on the water bath for the actual pasteurization. Place all your bottles (including the temp. Get a thermometer that you can stick through a #3 cork, the DOT by Themoworks is perfect for this, but cheaper ones workįill an empty bottle of the same size of those that you are pasteurizing with water and stick the probe in. Why is this important? Well, personally, I'd rather not screw around with 190F water and pressurized bottles when I can do the same with 149F water, get my point?Īlso, its pointless to even discuss PUs without having a way to monitor the temp INSIDE each bottle, and that's just a #3 stopper and a $15 digital thermometer away. PUs basically start at 140F ( 60C) and you can get 50 PUs without ever going above 65F (149F) and do so in under 15 minutes total time. That would get you over 1500 PUs, which would cook a cow My ciders stabalize at 25 PUs since they are dry ( 1.001-002 ) when I start, have very little active yeast and already have an ABV of 6-7% So 50 PUs is overkill for me, 25-30 is just fine.Įither way, to get 50 PUs you don't need a water bath at 190F for 10 min. In reality, of course, the beverage does not instantaneously go to the desired temperature, nor does it cool down instantaneously.īasically, with a semi-sweet cider that still has a lot of yeast in suspension or fresh apple juice the rule of thumb in Ciderville (nod to Ria and Cider Chat :rockin is 50 PUs. T is the time in minutes at which the beer is held at that temperature. PU = t × 1.393(T − 60) where T is the temperature in degrees Celsius, and The total number of PU's for a particular pasteurization processes for beer (or cider, roughly the same ABV) can be estimated from²: Unfortunately, higher temperatures tend to affect the taste of the beverage. It is a tradeoff: high temperatures for short times or lower temperatures for longer times. The success of pasteurization (that is, what percentage of the microrganisms are killed) is affected by both temperature and by the length of time for which the product is held at that temperature. The number of PU's required for a particular beverage depends on several factors, such as the microrganisms it contains and even on the type of packaging. Here is an EXCELLENT summary, (the formula has been simplified to remove the exponents and assumes a constant of 60, but this is good for cider and beer) One pasteurization unit is the microorganism death that occurs in a product held at 60☌ for 1 minute. I will post this in the stovetop sticky thread as well, but this way people can get the information without having to read through 126 pages.īasically, you can pasteurize at much lower temps, and as a result, maintain lower pressures, and as a result, suffer fewer bottle bombs, than what is recommended as 'standard' by most of the information on this website regarding stovetop pasteurization.ĭifferent ciders, be they still or sparkling, have different yeast loads and require different amounts of PUs to stabalize them.īut the net-net is that the methods outlined in most of the threads here = are OVERKILL and therefore unnecessarily dangerous at the temperatures they recommend and pressures that result.įirst, we need to understand what a PU is and have a system for measuring them.
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